Strut Advice

[From6to8]

bout time for me to change them out as it has been over 70k since I have changed them. Actually I'm thinking 70-90k and back in about 03-04 when I put KYB's on. They were the white kyb's I remember. My car is only a weekend driver, nice street car. I don't need a race strut but sometimes I play around with the car, as they call, blowing it out sometimes. Sometimes if I'm feeling it, when a sucker tries to show off I will shut em up quickly and let off before i get pulled lmao. So I went to Mustangs unlimmited and Summit and saw some different brands from KYB's #734014 Exc w/IRS (whatever that means) at Mustangs unlimmitted for $73 each. Summit has KYB's for $38 bucks so I need to find out if those compare to the one at MU. Also see some strange engineering for $69 at summit. Basically trying to get an idea of what I need to go with and will be fine with.

I put the Monroe highest quality shocks on from advance too somewhere maybe around that same time frame or maybe a yr or 2 later, I have it all written down in my book. I also want to change out all of the bushings for different stuff on front end as they still have the v6 bushings. Also still have the v6 sway bar too and wana change it out one day. I think for now definitely the struts and maybe a bushing kit for front end. So give me some advice guys

also summit has free shipping on most stuff I'm seeing so might just order from them if MU doesnt have free shipping. Also ordering a clutch kit and FR wires

[fastvert]

Every lowered car I've ridden in with cheap struts (monroe, kyb ect) had the ride quality of a dump truck.

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by fastvert

Every lowered car I've ridden in with cheap struts (monroe, kyb ect) had the ride quality of a dump truck.

ok post some Not to buys, and some To Buys?

[SJFox89]

How about a coil over set up has anyone installed these on a fox or newer body style.

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by fastvert

Every lowered car I've ridden in with cheap struts (monroe, kyb ect) had the ride quality of a dump truck.

just wondering did u ride in them when they were possibly on their last leg lol?

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Stock rate shocks/struts don't go well with lowering springs.

yeah i think i will just spend the extra loot and put some better ones one. Prob the bilsteins, tochiko, or strange. My boy just put strange on his 408, said he got them from a guy who had an extra set or something

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Tokico HP Blue..best shock/strut set for the money.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...rut-94-04.html

Shop around, I just pulled up that link for reference.

what about these?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KO...1050/?rtype=10

[Blck92GT]

I had the KYB GR2 shocks and struts in my fox when I sold it they were silver in color. I also ran Dropzone springs with 1/2 coil cut out of the fronts and it rode amazing. Then again I did have Maximum Motorsports CC plates, bumpsteer kit, poly urethane lowered sway bar end links, poly steering rack bushings and poly sway bar bushings so everything was nice and tight up front and was able to be aligned perfectly and the suspension geometry was in spec with it being lowered.

Rode smooth as hell over bumps and such but was firm around corners and when it needed to be. Car originally came with FMS C-springs and stock shocks n struts and it rode like complete shiit.

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by Blck92GT

I had the KYB GR2 shocks and struts in my fox when I sold it they were silver in color. I also ran Dropzone springs with 1/2 coil cut out of the fronts and it rode amazing. Then again I did have Maximum Motorsports CC plates, bumpsteer kit, poly urethane lowered sway bar end links, poly steering rack bushings and poly sway bar bushings so everything was nice and tight up front and was able to be aligned perfectly and the suspension geometry was in spec with it being lowered.

Rode smooth as hell over bumps and such but was firm around corners and when it needed to be. Car originally came with FMS C-springs and stock shocks n struts and it rode like complete shiit.

were the GR2's adjustable

[Blck92GT]

Originally Posted by From6to8

were the GR2's adjustable

Nope

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Tokico HP Blue..best shock/strut set for the money.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...rut-94-04.html

Shop around, I just pulled up that link for reference.

just did a google review on the hp blues and it seems some guys were dissatisfied because they thought they were going to get a smoother ride and in fact it was stiffer. They said they noticed a little difference but by no means was it night and day difference. Also said it handled much better but ride quality wasn't much of a difference. Stiffer shock equals stiff ride. Still being able to feel the bumps, ect?

I mean the KYB's are $72 at Mustang Unlimited and saw the Tokico blues for $89 on sale at this one site. If I'm going to get pretty much the same out of either, i would def wana spend less money. I mean I don't wana go outrageous cause the car is a weekend driver, non race, play around on street when i feel like it. My play around is maybe pulling up to a car who i know was BSing around and downshifting, and seeing what he has lol. Something to that effect. So i want a good ride quality, not feel many bumps, ect but also don't wana spend outrageous. When my KYB's and monroe sensatracs were new I dont think i felt any bumps and stuff but definitley can 9 yrs and 85 plus k miles later. Also i wana factor in lastibility or longevity of having to do them again. I'm thinking my struts shocks might have needed replacing ,well not sure exactly how long ago but been putting it off and probably needed done many miles ago

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

I loved the HP blues and they were what Maximum Motorsports recommended for me.

Give them a call and ask them about the quality and which is better.

yeah i think it will be between the tokico's and the strange. Billstien is just too dawgone expensive lol.

[From6to8]

This might be adsurd so just wondering in regards to what a guy told me years ago to what he heard lol. Yep he said he heard that FR spark plug wires were not for everyday normal driving but more for race applications. Any truth to this?

[FRED-MATIC]

Tokico Blues and if your car is lowered, and has caster camber plates, buy the Fox model struts , not SN-95's


Buy HB 3026's not HB 3140's......... but be SURE to order the HE3723 rear shocks for SN-95's 94-04

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by FRED-MATIC

Tokico Blues and if your car is lowered, and has caster camber plates, buy the Fox model struts , not SN-95's


Buy HB 3026's not HB 3140's......... but be SURE to order the HE3723 rear shocks for SN-95's 94-04

why get the fox one's?I surely aint trying to make something that won't exactly fit work and it must be nite and day difference for 30 bucks more? Lowered with eibach springs, hotchkis caster cambers

[FRED-MATIC]

Originally Posted by From6to8

why get the fox one's? Lowered with eibach springs, hotchkis caster cambers

Lowered= less suspension travel.

Fox struts have a shorter strut rod, better for less suspension travel.

Hotchkis plates raise the overall installed strut heght in the car, which can also lead to bottoming out the strut, before you run out of suspension travel. That can blow out the struts.

[FRED-MATIC]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

That's right, I forgot the fox struts are 1" shorter.

Cliint Eastwood says...

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by FRED-MATIC

Lowered= less suspension travel.

Fox struts have a shorter strut rod, better for less suspension travel.

Hotchkis plates raise the overall installed strut heght in the car, which can also lead to bottoming out the strut, before you run out of suspension travel. That can blow out the struts.

**** they don't tell you when you buy stuff................

I still don't know about spending 60 total bucks more and then I'm pissed when something doesn't fit or work right. Especially when I might install myself

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Then do the SN95 struts dude, it's no biggie. The only difference is the fox struts will help a little more with the chances of bottoming out.

You're getting worked up over nothing, just order SN95 shocks & struts.

lmao not getting worked up man, i was cussing at how they sell you things and don't tell you you are gona run into issues sometimes. Not in this case but with the chrome valve covers i got, they said nothing about the filler neck hitting the cold air tube, or elbow adapter.

So yeah i am on the phone now with American muscle cause I'm going to get the struts from them, cheaper plus mil discount. I'm going to call Hotchkis too and see what they say. The guy at AM said with an extremely lowered car, several inches the chances would be much much greater of the car bottoming out. I mean in my car at the most its usually 2 people in there. I think I can count on my hand how many times 3 or more people were in my car. But thanks for the advice though. I just wanted to know a little more on the why as to differences.

I still have the v6 sway bar on my car too and would beefing up the sway bar to another help tremendously? I can get a GT one or even a cobra (hollow right? ) from a guy who has a mustang junkyard/bodyshop. So if I will get about the same out of a GT or cobra than with purchasing a new steeda or other aftermarket I can stand to save as much as I can for the various other things I need to do. I have all of the v6 bushings and stuff still on the car, mainly the front end. I do have subframe connectors and Mac upper and lower control arms on the car. Will all of the bushings I need for front end come in that kit? I see the kit comes with strut bushings as well but since i will put on new struts will I even need those. If I will come out cheaper buying individually than with getting a kit and not using some of the parts I would like to go the money save route. Anything you can let me know about this would help.

thanks

[FRED-MATIC]

Originally Posted by From6to8

lmao not getting worked up man, i was cussing at how they sell you things and don't tell you you are gona run into issues sometimes. Not in this case but with the chrome valve covers i got, they said nothing about the filler neck hitting the cold air tube, or elbow adapter.

So yeah i am on the phone now with American muscle cause I'm going to get the struts from them, cheaper plus mil discount. I'm going to call Hotchkis too and see what they say. The guy at AM said with an extremely lowered car, several inches the chances would be much much greater of the car bottoming out. I mean in my car at the most its usually 2 people in there. I think I can count on my hand how many times 3 or more people were in my car. But thanks for the advice though. I just wanted to know a little more on the why as to differences.


thanks

Thats because most places you call, the guys on the phone are order takers, and don't have 20+ years real world experience with Mustangs, let alone the subtle differences and parts compatibilty

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by FRED-MATIC

Thats because most places you call, the guys on the phone are order takers, and don't have 20+ years real world experience with Mustangs, let alone the subtle differences and parts compatibilty

i specifically always ask when i have technical questions if they know anything if they dont have technicians or the techs are busy. I actually think the first guy was a tech, he actually asked his team also. When I called hotchkis, it was a tech and he said yeah he could see where what you said could make sense but didnt have any direct knowledge of anyone doing it. They asked me questions about my setup, ect and what i gathered was that sure what you said might make great sense, but not sure if in my case it would warrant 60 bucks more sense but i appreciate any help anyone gives. I was just trying to see if anyone actually noticed a tremendous difference and its nite and day, something that will affect me everytime i drive. I try and avoid every hole or anything in the road I see.

So whats your advice on the sway bar. I still have the v6 front and rear on, as well as all the v6 bushings. Instead of typing all that stuff over i am just gona copy and paste lol:

I still have the v6 sway bar on my car too and would beefing up the sway bar to another help tremendously? I can get a GT one or even a cobra (hollow right? ) from a guy who has a mustang junkyard/bodyshop. So if I will get about the same out of a GT or cobra than with purchasing a new steeda or other aftermarket I can stand to save as much as I can for the various other things I need to do. I have all of the v6 bushings and stuff still on the car, mainly the front end. I do have subframe connectors and Mac upper and lower control arms on the car. Will all of the bushings I need for front end come in that kit? I see the kit comes with strut bushings as well but since i will put on new struts will I even need those. If I will come out cheaper buying individually than with getting a kit and not using some of the parts I would like to go the money save route. Anything you can let me know about this would help.

thanks

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

I have always gotten my suspension info from Maximum.

When I bought suspension parts, they told me the 96-98 Cobra Rear Sway was better than the GT sonI got that. When it comes to suspension I trust Maximum Motorsports more than any other company.

i will call them monday. So whats ure take on the questions i posted in last few post?

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Which questions?

We got the shocks, struts & sway.

i didnt get your comment on the sway bar and if it is necessary for what I'm gona use the car for to even change the sway bar since they all arent much thicker than the next , i guess some might be a thicker steal though.

As for the stuff that comes in the bushings kit:

- Front Lower Control Arm
- Rear Control Arm (Upper & Lower)
- Rack & Pinion (Standard and Offset)
- Transmission Crossmember
- Swaybar Endlinks
- Front and Rear Coil Spring Insulators
- Front Strut
- Transmission Mount

seems like new struts will equal new bushings so won't need those, will changing out the other stuff be necessary or does anything not mentioned in that need to be?

[FRED-MATIC]

Originally Posted by From6to8

i didnt get your comment on the sway bar and if it is necessary for what I'm gona use the car for to even change the sway bar since they all arent much thicker than the next , i guess some might be a thicker steal though.

As for the stuff that comes in the bushings kit:

- Front Lower Control Arm
- Rear Control Arm (Upper & Lower)
- Rack & Pinion (Standard and Offset)
- Transmission Crossmember
- Swaybar Endlinks
- Front and Rear Coil Spring Insulators
- Front Strut
- Transmission Mount

seems like new struts will equal new bushings so won't need those, will changing out the other stuff be necessary or does anything not mentioned in that need to be?

Most of those you dont need, BC you have aftermarket LCA's/ UCA's right ?
You also have CC plates, so no need for strut bushings
Replacing front LCA bushings is a royal PITA, so just buy a set of 03-04 Cobra front LCA's instead. You'll pick up sone improvements there.

Finish off with rack bushings, and a swaybar bushing kit, and your done

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

If you can pick up a 96-98 Cobra rear sway bar that I would do it as long as it isn't $$. I bought mine back in 2003 so I have no idea on prices now.

I def agree with Fred on the lower front control arms, the 03-04 Cobra fronts are better by far. I def noticed a difference when I swapped.

sounds good i will price those items. Actually that guy i was talking about that has the mustang place might have all of what I need. And yes have the hotchkis CC's. If it's a used set of cobra LCA's, how likely would the bushings be good and not need replacing, and if they do are they much easier to change than mine? Searching google looks like some are saying 99-04 cobra lca, some are saying 03-04 cobra IRS lower control arm?????

if i got a cobra sway bar from him, should i add bushings for those to the list as well or with the sway bar bushing kit include front and rear ones. Does it come with end links/end link bushings , do I need to change those. Didnt understand if the sway bar bushing kit came with all of those things or if i even needed to change them. I'm just now getting up on this suspension stuff

[FRED-MATIC]

Originally Posted by From6to8

sounds good i will price those items. Actually that guy i was talking about that has the mustang place might have all of what I need. And yes have the hotchkis CC's. If it's a used set of cobra LCA's, how likely would the bushings be good and not need replacing, and if they do are they much easier to change than mine? Searching google looks like some are saying 99-04 cobra lca, some are saying 03-04 cobra IRS lower control arm?????

if i got a cobra sway bar from him, should i add bushings for those to the list as well or with the sway bar bushing kit include front and rear ones. Does it come with end links/end link bushings , do I need to change those. Didnt understand if the sway bar bushing kit came with all of those things or if i even needed to change them. I'm just now getting up on this suspension stuff

Used ones may have worn out bushings

03-04 Cobra Front LCA's FRPP part # M3075-D

Rear swaybars do not have any bushings, they just bolt to the LCA's

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by FRED-MATIC

Used ones may have worn out bushings

03-04 Cobra Front LCA's FRPP part # M3075-D

Rear swaybars do not have any bushings, they just bolt to the LCA's

ok what about the end links/end link bushings?

just googled that part number and dammmmmmmmmmmm reg price 516 on sale for 420.

i will check and see about rock auto or some other places prices for sure, surly won't pay that much lol

[From6to8]

i have a question in regards to my tps and the fp regulator. I'm thinking about putting on the stock regulator just to see if the car runs any different. I didnt smell fuel in the vacuum line while car was running and think i barely smelled fuel when car was not running. Fuel pressure always stays steady and it takes maybe 20 mins or so for the pressure to bleed down to 0. I have had the stock regulator in a plastic bag for yrs so i might just try it back on and see what happens.

As far as the tps, last I checked it everything checked out fine but just wondering if it can be bad and not throw a check engine light? I didnt get any tps related code even with koeo and koer test either just to mention.

Lastly, the screw on my professional products tb when i went to adjust aidle last time, the direction to lower idle, the screw was tight and didnt seem to have any adjustment going to the left I believe. Going right to raise idle ofcourse it had adjustment so i ended up trying to lower idle first by other idle stop screw then trying the indented screw but that didnt work either. Idle is about 1000-1100 or so. I will try and see if the screw can turn even though it was as if it was tight and reset idle.

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

The member 003 on here is the owner of www.speedconcepts.net amd will usually set MW members on here up with really good prices. He might be able to go less than he lists his prices on his site.

http://www.speedconcepts.net/product...roducts_id=233

ok after I check some other places I will holler at him and see how low he can go. Is there a contact for him at that link?

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

PM him on here.

003

few questions u missed. I just copied and pasted

003 was not found when I went to PM him

ok what about the end links/end link bushings?

i have a question in regards to my tps and the fp regulator. I'm thinking about putting on the stock regulator just to see if the car runs any different. I didnt smell fuel in the vacuum line while car was running and think i barely smelled fuel when car was not running. Fuel pressure always stays steady and it takes maybe 20 mins or so for the pressure to bleed down to 0. I have had the stock regulator in a plastic bag for yrs so i might just try it back on and see what happens.

As far as the tps, last I checked it everything checked out fine but just wondering if it can be bad and not throw a check engine light? I didnt get any tps related code even with koeo and koer test either just to mention.

Lastly, the screw on my professional products tb when i went to adjust aidle last time, the direction to lower idle, the screw was tight and didnt seem to have any adjustment going to the left I believe. Going right to raise idle ofcourse it had adjustment so i ended up trying to lower idle first by other idle stop screw then trying the indented screw but that didnt work either. Idle is about 1000-1100 or so. I will try and see if the screw can turn even though it was as if it was tight and reset idle.

[SJFox89]

Coil-overs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxSB...D0E93EA49682E0

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by SJFox89

Coil-overs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxSB...D0E93EA49682E0

my damn adobe is acting up at work will have to view at home

isn't coil overs more for race and doing alot of stunts, turns, different stuff with your car? I won't be doing all that stuff to spend all that extra money lol. I have eibach's on now

[SJFox89]

Originally Posted by From6to8

my damn adobe is acting up at work will have to view at home

isn't coil overs more for race and doing alot of stunts, turns, different stuff with your car? I won't be doing all that stuff to spend all that extra money lol. I have eibach's on now

U also can adjust them to ur track settings. Drag or Track....just a thought. I seen these guys on drift5.0 on youtube and homeboy is beast in his five o.

[From6to8]

if i didnt go with the cobra 03-04 LCA's and don't change the bushing's in mine and just do struts and sway bar bushings, how bout that?

need to change out the end links and end link bushings?

[From6to8]

took the car to get looked at precision tune, free estimate and the guy drove the car and put it up on the lift and what he came up with after looking at how one front tire was wearing on outer edge was that the alignment is probaby off, struts, sway bar links and bushings, and shocks. He said the control arm bushings and ball joints looked fine. After doing all of those things I will let them check and align if needed. If the front control arms are changed later on down the road will a re-alignment be needed?

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

2003-2004 specific is what you want.

I am going to get new struts and shocks and stabilizer links and bushings as per recommended after taking car to a shop saturday. If a few yrs down the road I need front control arm bushings will that require an alignment?

[fastvert]

Originally Posted by From6to8

003 was not found when I went to PM him

It's 006.
I've dealt with him several times. He's a good guy, though I think he might be a homosexual.. not that there's anything wrong with that
I recommend Koni, whatever is their latest product for street applications.

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by fastvert

It's 006.
I've dealt with him several times. He's a good guy, though I think he might be a homosexual.. not that there's anything wrong with that
I recommend Koni, whatever is their latest product for street applications.

I'm trying to decide if I should change out my front control arms or just go on the advice of the tech at precision tune. Let me start by saying after checking them, he said they looked ok to him and said they had a few bruises but that people think that just cause they do they need changing and that was incorrect. He seemed to be a straightup guy and even told me as far as recommendations on my alignment, he said don't go to any regular shops. He referred me to a place he used to work and that they work on and align performance cars and that the owner has one. He said they know what they are doing there.

The car had 125k on it when I took the v6 out and has about 96k on the car since putting v8 in back in 02. This car is a non track , non race car. I mean sometimes when I'm out driving I get the fever and need to wana shut some lil punk up lol I might play around briefly with it, but I aint tryna go to jail or donate money to the state so I really don't mess with it. I know that I will need another alignment if I were to put on front control arms maybe yrs later if I check them and need them at that time. I know I will need one after putting on new struts and shocks coming up here in next few wks. If I can wait I will probably just wait till I definitely need control arms and save that money and put towards some other stuff I wana do with car. I sure don't wana pay for an alignment twice but I can live with paying for one if I might can go another say 3 yrs before possibly needing arms. So I'm just pondering what to do and wondering what you think about putting them on later vs possibly not really needing them now?

I will get one more opinion just to see what someone else who knows what they are talking about also thinks. I'm going to get struts, shocks, and sway bar end links and bushings as recommended by him after checking my car out.

[006]

Originally Posted by fastvert

It's 006.
I've dealt with him several times. He's a good guy, though I think he might be a homosexual.. not that there's anything wrong with that
I recommend Koni, whatever is their latest product for street applications.

Originally Posted by From6to8

I'm trying to decide if I should change out my front control arms or just go on the advice of the tech at precision tune. Let me start by saying after checking them, he said they looked ok to him and said they had a few bruises but that people think that just cause they do they need changing and that was incorrect. He seemed to be a straightup guy and even told me as far as recommendations on my alignment, he said don't go to any regular shops. He referred me to a place he used to work and that they work on and align performance cars and that the owner has one. He said they know what they are doing there.

The car had 125k on it when I took the v6 out and has about 96k on the car since putting v8 in back in 02. This car is a non track , non race car. I mean sometimes when I'm out driving I get the fever and need to wana shut some lil punk up lol I might play around briefly with it, but I aint tryna go to jail or donate money to the state so I really don't mess with it. I know that I will need another alignment if I were to put on front control arms maybe yrs later if I check them and need them at that time. I know I will need one after putting on new struts and shocks coming up here in next few wks. If I can wait I will probably just wait till I definitely need control arms and save that money and put towards some other stuff I wana do with car. I sure don't wana pay for an alignment twice but I can live with paying for one if I might can go another say 3 yrs before possibly needing arms. So I'm just pondering what to do and wondering what you think about putting them on later vs possibly not really needing them now?

I will get one more opinion just to see what someone else who knows what they are talking about also thinks. I'm going to get struts, shocks, and sway bar end links and bushings as recommended by him after checking my car out.

Tried to respond to your PM a few days ago, but your msgs were full. You can shoot me an email to: Sales@speedconcepts.net

[From6to8]

Originally Posted by 006

Tried to respond to your PM a few days ago, but your msgs were full. You can shoot me an email to: Sales@speedconcepts.net

i emailed ya

..................mail got returned to using the email link u left for me