0 Balance

[SL33P312]

Well Creme Puff called it. Charger went on... and now its off.
Looks like a blown head gasket.. but since i have it all apart again im just going to freshen the block up with forged internals. I was reading up on different kits and people are saying that if I can get a supplier to balance to 0 its way better than 28oz.

Question 1: Why?
Question 2: If 0 Balance this means: Use flywheel and Harmonic Balancer with no counter weight?

Anyone know a good place to get a rotating assembly?

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Well Creme Puff called it. Charger went on... and now its off.
Looks like a blown head gasket.. but since i have it all apart again im just going to freshen the block up with forged internals. I was reading up on different kits and people are saying that if I can get a supplier to balance to 0 its way better than 28oz.

Question 1: Why?
Question 2: If 0 Balance this means: Use flywheel and Harmonic Balancer with no counter weight?

Anyone know a good place to get a rotating assembly?

the better the balance, the faster/easier your combo will rev, as well it helps a great deal with how long the stock block will last.. although nothing will make the stock block last forever, think of it has a bit of help.

i have a 0 balance in mine and i LOVE it.. it revs way faster than any other sbf car i have driven, although part of that would be the solid camshaft as well.

what cubic inch you going 331 or 347, eagle/srp makes a nice 347 and 331 kit.. i know they have a 0 balance 347 since thats what im running, i can get you the part number if you want.. i belive modo is running their same kit but in 331 not sure of the balance tho.

and yes if you go 0 balance you need a new balancer and flywheel (unless the flywheel has a removable counter weight.

if you are spending the money on a good rotating assembly, please please dont skimp and buy a ****ty cheap balancer.. spend the ~250 bucks and get a good one.

[SL33P312]

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking something along these lines but im not sure. clicky

[modo]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Well Creme Puff called it. Charger went on... and now its off.
Looks like a blown head gasket.. but since i have it all apart again im just going to freshen the block up with forged internals. I was reading up on different kits and people are saying that if I can get a supplier to balance to 0 its way better than 28oz.

Question 1: Why?
Question 2: If 0 Balance this means: Use flywheel and Harmonic Balancer with no counter weight?

Anyone know a good place to get a rotating assembly?

1) its still balanced. is it better? that depends on the machinist / builder. not all engines can be internally balanced.
2) yup

[modo]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

the better the balance, the faster/easier your combo will rev, as well it helps a great deal with how long the stock block will last.. although nothing will make the stock block last forever, think of it has a bit of help.

i have a 0 balance in mine and i LOVE it.. it revs way faster than any other sbf car i have driven, although part of that would be the solid camshaft as well.

what cubic inch you going 331 or 347, eagle/srp makes a nice 347 and 331 kit.. i know they have a 0 balance 347 since thats what im running, i can get you the part number if you want.. i belive modo is running their same kit but in 331 not sure of the balance tho.

and yes if you go 0 balance you need a new balancer and flywheel (unless the flywheel has a removable counter weight.

if you are spending the money on a good rotating assembly, please please dont skimp and buy a ****ty cheap balancer.. spend the ~250 bucks and get a good one.

my junk is internally balanced (eagle crank / rods, je pistons), innovative west dampener / mcleod steel flywheel

[Cream Puff]

id reccomend going with the higher end kit thats forged crank/h beam rod instead of the cast crank/i beam.

the reason i say that, is if you buy the cheaper stuff now, and you ever want to upgrade again, then you have to buy a new block, and a completely new rotating assembly.

if you buy the better stuff now, it dosnt cost you that much more and then down the road all you need to do is replace the block and rings/bearings and swap your already good parts over.

it will save you big money in the long run to not have to buy parts twice

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by modo

my junk is internally balanced (eagle crank / rods, je pistons), innovative west dampener / mcleod steel flywheel

^ there you have it they make a 0 balance in either 331 or 347

[SL33P312]

Where do you guys recommend ordering from?

[modo]

i wouldn't put ANY aftermarket rotating assembly parts in a stock block... hell the stock rotating assembly parts are stronger then the block. Also don't let anyone convince or try to tell you that the late 92-93 hypereutectic pistons are weak. if they tell you that they don't know sh1t

[modo]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

^ there you have it they make a 0 balance in either 331 or 347

why would you think otherwise homie... as long as there is enough meat / room in the crank then it can be internally balances

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Where do you guys recommend ordering from?

whats your budget?, can you afford a block at ~1500 bucks in adition to the rotating assembly or not?

and how fast do you need the parts.. are you putting it together yourself or going to a shop?

[hnkstang50]

if its just a blown head gasket why not replace the bad gaskets and fix the reason that they blew... colder plugs, HEAD STUDS, change timing, fix a/f ratio, find warped head/block. you have to take alot more apart to "freshing up" the motor than to repalce head gaskets.

[SL33P312]

Originally Posted by hnkstang50

if its just a blown head gasket why not replace the bad gaskets and fix the reason that they blew... colder plugs, HEAD STUDS, change timing, fix a/f ratio, find warped head/block. you have to take alot more apart to "freshing up" the motor than to repalce head gaskets.

Stock block and pistons... just a matter of time. And the last thing i want to do is rip it all down again to get to something i have a chance to get to right now. Is that not what most people would do?

[MRBiggs]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Stock block and pistons... just a matter of time. And the last thing i want to do is rip it all down again to get to something i have a chance to get to right now. Is that not what most people would do?

Yeah thats what most would do...or at least what they would like to do. But your case is different.

you're talking about paying for a nice zero balance 331 or 347 kit to put with a blower.....


In a stock block.


What they are trying to tell you that in YOUR case its not really worth it.
You're gonna spend all your money on putting that nice $hit in a junk block that will probably let go in short time and most likely take all your nice new $hit with it.

Do one or the other. A blower with the cheapie stock style stuff or NA stroker with low priced stuff.

But DONT put a bunch of rotating assembly money in a stock block. If you really must spend money at least pop for a nice block.

[hnkstang50]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Stock block and pistons... just a matter of time. And the last thing i want to do is rip it all down again to get to something i have a chance to get to right now. Is that not what most people would do?

just a matter of time if your tune is not rite, other wise i wouldnt be worried about making up to 550 hp with the stock bottom end.. been doin it for around 3 years now.

now if you wanted to make 500 hp on a stock block with expensive fancy parts inside... then i would be worried

[SL33P312]

Originally Posted by hnkstang50

just a matter of time if your tune is not rite, other wise i wouldnt be worried about making up to 550 hp with the stock bottom end.. been doin it for around 3 years now.

now if you wanted to make 500 hp on a stock block with expensive fancy parts inside... then i would be worried

no sh1t? 550 on a stock block and internals. I was thinking i should be around 450ish Perhaps ill see what the machien shop has to say about the shape of the block and pistons ect before i get all crazy. Thanks,

[modo]

Originally Posted by SL33P312

no sh1t? 550 on a stock block and internals. I was thinking i should be around 450ish Perhaps ill see what the machien shop has to say about the shape of the block and pistons ect before i get all crazy. Thanks,

without trying my stock 93 shortblock with 140,000 miles on it made 560 rwhp with afr 165s, gt40 intake, decent cam and a s-trim

add a stroker and that is well over 600 which is too much for a reliable stock block motor

[SL33P312]

Cool all good advice guys thanks!

[BONESTOCK]

Originally Posted by modo

without trying my stock 93 shortblock with 140,000 miles on it made 560 rwhp with afr 165s, gt40 intake, decent cam and a s-trim

add a stroker and that is well over 600 which is too much for a reliable stock block motor

I want to on your hood.

[modo]

Originally Posted by BONESTOCK

I want to on your hood.

the new numbers are more sexy... 700+ on pump gas

[BONESTOCK]

Jebus!

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by modo

the new numbers are more sexy... 700+ on pump gas

do u have the motor back yet newb?

[modo]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

do u have the motor back yet newb?

maybe

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by modo

maybe

[342LX]

zero balance usually requires a lot of drilling of the counter weights and a lot of mallory = a lot of money.

Your best bet is go go with what the machinist recommends not what people on here have done because each reciprocating assembly is different.

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by 342LX

zero balance usually requires a lot of drilling of the counter weights and a lot of mallory = a lot of money.

Your best bet is go go with what the machinist recommends not what people on here have done because each reciprocating assembly is different.

hes talking about buying a stroker kit, not trying to 0 balance the stock junk.

[342LX]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

hes talking about buying a stroker kit, not trying to 0 balance the stock junk.

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by 342LX

.

Originally Posted by SL33P312

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking something along these lines but im not sure. clicky

^ note the link

[342LX]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

.




^ note the link

whoopdity doo, still going to take a couple slugs of mallory to zero balance.

I think that might even be the same kit I bought from a guy selling on corral, think his name was JD, don't remember been almost 6 years.

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by 342LX

whoopdity doo, still going to take a couple slugs of mallory to zero balance.

you can buy stroker kits already 0 balanced..

[342LX]

Originally Posted by Cream Puff

you can buy stroker kits already 0 balanced..

the one in the link is 28 oz. No doubt you can buy whatever you want, or whatever you can afford. Point is and was, consult your machinist not somebody on a message board.


I don't even see a kit on that entire site for ford that isn't externally balanced.

[Cream Puff]

http://www.eaglerod.com/index.php?op...d=21&Itemid=32



with the rod bolt upgrade that stuff is good to 1200 hp

[Cream Puff]

Originally Posted by 95 Bullitt

Did you get my PM f@g?

maybe

[PaxtonPwr]

the machinist will tell ya to replace stuff, they make $$$$ that way. If you just burned up some regular stock old ass gaskets pretty quick cause your tune was off dont pull the motor. Just pop off the heads and have them decked true, put on new gaskets and some ARP bolts overtq'd a bit. Then take your car to someone that knows how to tune or buy a wideband and start learning how to do it yourself.

The bottom line is there is no point or need for anything more than a stock shortblock if you are going to use a poweradder and HCI. You would be wasting $$$ and increasing the load on the already weak block with a stroker.

And the fact that you A. didnt pay to have your car tuned correctly and B. Talk about a cheap weak stroker in a factory block makes us think you'd want to spend your $$$ wisely.