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Old 01-31-2007, 12:54 PM   #1
jcm3
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Any of you have the Porter Cable 7424 polisher?

I got one the Christmas before last, and didn't break it out of the box until last week.

I'll tell ya, that bad boy works well! I wanted to try it out on my truck first so I didn't fvck anything up, but I think it's pretty idiot-proof.

I polished up the Stang with it, and it looks great! I went over it with Maguires paint cleaner first (in the pics), and still need to go over it with the finer polish and the polishing pad. It will probably look a little bit better, but not much. It is already shining like a diamond in a goat's ass. lol

Here are a few pics. I still need to wash it, as I only spent a couple of hours on it and haven't even cleaned the dust out of the gaps yet.

Before pic (it was very dirty):


After (also cleaned alot of crap out of the garage):



Couldn't use the flash on this one, but even without it, you can see the detail on the ceiling. Looks better in person than in pics.


I also put my stock seats back in, they are sooooooo much more comfortable. I want to start enjoying it again, and screw the .05 sec in the quarter that the other seats might have given me.

A good link on how to use it: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:34 PM   #2
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I have one and love it!!
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139827.jpg[/img]
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:37 PM   #3
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i love www.eastwood.com products, but if your in a pinch the 3M Perfect-IT II series (dark cars) polish works awesome... you can get it at most stores.

my car has about a 1/2" of dust on it from sitting long... as soon as i put the injectors in it i can fire it up, then its bath time
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:40 PM   #4
jcm3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastvert
I have one and love it!!
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139827.jpg[/img]


Nice.

MIke, do you use it much for cutting action, for deeper scratches? I have a few that I'd like to get rid of, but being a bit of a rookie with these things (and an expensive paint job about 5 years ago) has me a bit tentative about trying out anything harsher than a mild pad with a light-cutting compound/cleaner.

If so, what pad and compound do you like?

Great job on the orange-peel free paint finish you have there! I love how it looks when you can see sharp lines in the reflection.
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:42 PM   #5
jcm3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modo
i love www.eastwood.com products, but if your in a pinch the 3M Perfect-IT II series (dark cars) polish works awesome... you can get it at most stores.

my car has about a 1/2" of dust on it from sitting long... as soon as i put the injectors in it i can fire it up, then its bath time


No kidding, mine was the same way. I was a bad boy and let sap (from the garage work that I have been doing - hanging ceiling joices) sit on it for months. I was worried that it would leave some light damage.

Fortunately it came off very easily with alcohol and didn't leave any residue or sign that it was there at all. Alcohol works great for sap removal!
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92 GT Vert: Keith Craft 306ci, Vortech SQ-Trim with Power Cooler, Edelbrock heads and Performer intake, FTI cam, T-56 6-speed, Spec Stage Three, Baer Brakes (13"/12"), Griggs rear suspension, 3.55's. Best time (with E-303 cam) - 11.56 @ 121.75 mph, 1.78 60' on ET Streets (7.48 @ 95.69 1/8th). 500 rwhp/463 rwtq (498 rwhp/468 rwtq with cats). Over 3500 pounds, without driver!
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm3
No kidding, mine was the same way. I was a bad boy and let sap (from the garage work that I have been doing - hanging ceiling joices) sit on it for months. I was worried that it would leave some light damage.

Fortunately it came off very easily with alcohol and didn't leave any residue or sign that it was there at all. Alcohol works great for sap removal!


yeah mine is just dust and fingerprints...

if you want to cut the scratches just pickup that 3M glaze and mild pad... i just use a yellow on my rotary... if a car is real bad i would hit it with a wool but thats a last resort...
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:55 PM   #7
jcm3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modo
yeah mine is just dust and fingerprints...

if you want to cut the scratches just pickup that 3M glaze and mild pad... i just use a yellow on my rotary... if a car is real bad i would hit it with a wool but thats a last resort...


Good info, thanks Dennis.

When will you have the bad boy back on the road?
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92 GT Vert: Keith Craft 306ci, Vortech SQ-Trim with Power Cooler, Edelbrock heads and Performer intake, FTI cam, T-56 6-speed, Spec Stage Three, Baer Brakes (13"/12"), Griggs rear suspension, 3.55's. Best time (with E-303 cam) - 11.56 @ 121.75 mph, 1.78 60' on ET Streets (7.48 @ 95.69 1/8th). 500 rwhp/463 rwtq (498 rwhp/468 rwtq with cats). Over 3500 pounds, without driver!
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:58 PM   #8
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For compound I like 3M's perfect-it 2, used with a meguires(sp?) foam red cutting pad, then Mequires #3 Machine Glaze with a foam polishing pad.

I usually only use the Porter Cable for finishing. It's really best to use a rotory polisher for cutting. The DA will do it, but it takes a while.

Don't be worry about using compound. You could be careful on the corners, but with a DA, I can't imagine you burning through even if you tried to.
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:58 PM   #9
modo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm3
Good info, thanks Dennis.

When will you have the bad boy back on the road?


gotta pickup the 83 lbers, then its off to my friends dyno
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Last edited by modo : 01-31-2007 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm3
Great job on the orange-peel free paint finish you have there! I love how it looks when you can see sharp lines in the reflection. .
Thanks, man. I wish I could get it to lay like that straight out of the gun. My spraying skills >

Try the 3M PI-2 compound on a small area. You'll see that with the PorterCable, even with a cutting pad, it's pretty mild. Now with a rotary, it's a whole different ball game.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:10 PM   #11
RioRed4v
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have one as well and absolutely love it. a few friends have used it also and loved it as well. very easy to use.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RioRed4v
have one as well and absolutely love it. a few friends have used it also and loved it as well. very easy to use.
you should swing by and polish my Navigator on sunday while I watch the game
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:26 PM   #13
RioRed4v
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 347vert
you should swing by and polish my Navigator on sunday while I watch the game


sounds exciting, other plans > me
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Old 01-31-2007, 06:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastvert
Thanks, man. I wish I could get it to lay like that straight out of the gun. My spraying skills >

Try the 3M PI-2 compound on a small area. You'll see that with the PorterCable, even with a cutting pad, it's pretty mild. Now with a rotary, it's a whole different ball game.


when i get to wet sanding out my orange peel what do i do for buffing afterwards, i remember from my short autobody class that there were 3 different stage polishers/waxes we used after wetsanding
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnkstang50
when i get to wet sanding out my orange peel what do i do for buffing afterwards, i remember from my short autobody class that there were 3 different stage polishers/waxes we used after wetsanding
Hey, man.
You usually wetsand and polish within a week or 2 after painting. You can do it now, but it's going to be a lot harder after curing, as long as yours' has.

Wet sand using 1500 grit, then break it down to 2000 grit (some go down to 2500 grit). Use a short sanding block (4" or so) or rubber pad. Use a X sanding pattern.
You don't want to break through the clear. If you used single stage then you don't have to worry about this, but you still don't want the paint too thin.
If it's single staged and metallic, you might want to sand it and repaint.

Compound with a rotory type polisher and wool or foam cutting pad (I don't like wool, but a lot of people do). I like 3M perfect-it 2 compound. I usually tape the corners for compounding with a rotary, to keep from breaking through the clear at the edges, but as long as your paint has cured you won't likely have issues. You compound until the sand scratches are gone and it shines. After the compound, it should look shinny and done, except you'll have swirl.

Then you polish it with the rotary type polisher and soft foam polishing pad. I like Meguires "Machine Glaze 3".

Go over it once more, with a dual action/random orbit type polisher, like the Porter Cable 7424... Using a finishing pad and the same Meguire's polish (Machine glaze 3).

Then you wax it to protect and seal.



Here's a picture of a car I was wetsanding and compounding. This was like 2 days after painting. Some people think that compound scuffs up, not shine. Probably they think that because of the simonize hand compound junk, that scuffs like sandpaper. Quality machine compound makes shine
[img]http://www.****************/data/13225/paint1.jpg[/img]


Here's another. You see the fender after wet sanding, compared to the hood after compounding.
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139987.jpg[/img]

Then the hood after polishing
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139988.jpg[/img]




.

Last edited by fastvert : 01-31-2007 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 02-01-2007, 04:23 AM   #16
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ok, yea i have single stage and its got a good amount of coats on it, i was told by the guy i got the paint from that i could wet sand in the spring if i wanted... hopfuly it will go well. thanks for the info!
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a9l computer, pro tube meter, 42# injectors, 255 fuel pump, snow meth injection, bbk fpr, gtp 38 turbo, spearco intercooler, aod with trasgo shift kit

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Old 02-01-2007, 03:14 PM   #17
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PC is the best thing ever. Here is my car stock paint with the exception of front bumper, hood, and a spot on the passenegr fender. I clayed, then Optimum Polish, a sealer, and 2 layers of Nattys Blue by hand. Looks absolutely amazing imo for 15 year old paint


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Old 02-01-2007, 06:39 PM   #18
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looks nice blck, i love a clean black fox....

fastvert, when wetsanding a curvy spot like tho hood would i take the paper off the block and use it just in my hand?
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a9l computer, pro tube meter, 42# injectors, 255 fuel pump, snow meth injection, bbk fpr, gtp 38 turbo, spearco intercooler, aod with trasgo shift kit

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Old 02-01-2007, 08:53 PM   #19
jcm3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastvert
Quality machine compound makes shine
[img]http://www.****************/data/13225/paint1.jpg[/img]


Here's another. You see the fender after wet sanding, compared to the hood after compounding.
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139987.jpg[/img]

Then the hood after polishing
[img]http://www.****************/ims/u/1318/1930/139988.jpg[/img]

.


Wow, that is some very nice-looking work!
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92 GT Vert: Keith Craft 306ci, Vortech SQ-Trim with Power Cooler, Edelbrock heads and Performer intake, FTI cam, T-56 6-speed, Spec Stage Three, Baer Brakes (13"/12"), Griggs rear suspension, 3.55's. Best time (with E-303 cam) - 11.56 @ 121.75 mph, 1.78 60' on ET Streets (7.48 @ 95.69 1/8th). 500 rwhp/463 rwtq (498 rwhp/468 rwtq with cats). Over 3500 pounds, without driver!
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:13 PM   #20
fastvert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hnkstang50
fastvert, when wetsanding a curvy spot like tho hood would i take the paper off the block and use it just in my hand?
You use a block everywhere you can, including the entire hood. On the cowl part of the hood you would go up down and in X pattern, with the rounded edge of the block. On the front of the hood, where it has the curve going to the grill, you'll roll the block around letting it follow the curve, from all different angles. It probably doesn't make any sense to just think about it, but once you start doing it, it will.
If you use just folded paper on the whole car, without a block. When you get all of the peal out, you'll see urethane wave in the reflection. It won't look flat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm3
Wow, that is some very nice-looking work!
Thanks, bro

Last edited by fastvert : 02-01-2007 at 09:26 PM.
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