89lxny

How do I set the distibuter in the motor? I Set the balancer so the pointer is at 0 and the rotor so that it is at number1 cyl. on the cap. Is this right? and does it matter where the teeth on dist. and cam meet? Also I need to put on clutch pressure plate flywheel. I dont know how to line them up. the haynes manual doesnt say really. what do I do?? (the flywheel Is wieghted). I finally set up a page so I could post pics. here ya go motor and car http://a700.ac-images.myspacecdn.co...47a7df90593.jpg http://a213.ac-images.myspacecdn.co...3cc34212d8c.jpg http://a98.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...ad553c38489.jpg http://a116.ac-images.myspacecdn.co...75f5745aa63.jpg http://a258.ac-images.myspacecdn.co...21ae815f729.jpg

gtmustang88

I would put the balancer at about 10 degrees or so, and then put the distributor in and make sure the rotor lines up with number 1 on the cap and that will get it started. As for the flywheel and pressure plate, the flywheel should go on one way i beleive where u can get all 6 bolts in. Make sure the dowls are in the flywheel too and then use the clutch alignment tool to put the disc and pressure plate on. As long as the pressure plate lines up with the dowls goin into there respected holes and the pressure plate bolts lining up with all the flywheel holes, you are fine.

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88 Mustang Gt
00 Mustang Gt

fastvert

Compression stroke for #1 cylinder only comes around every 2 complete rotations of the engine. Just lining the pointer on the marks only gives you a 50/50 chance.

gtmustang88

yeah, i forgot to mention that. You can look witht he valve cover off or have a buddy bump the motor while u put ur finger over number one plug hole and wait for a burst of air.

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88 Mustang Gt
00 Mustang Gt

89lxny

Well I originally had it at tdc then put in the cam with the timing marks lined up then I installed the rest and the timing pointer was a little off so I turned it to zero. so it should be right still i think?

fastvert

It depends how you made sure it was at TDC. If you lined up the timing marks and also peeked under the cap, to make sure the rotor button was under #1 terminal, then you were at TDC compression stroke.
If you didn't look at the rotor postion, then you could have been 180* off.

The cam only spins one time for every two rotations of the engine. In other words, when the marks come around it could be 180* off, spin the engine one more complete turn and you're on TDC compression stroke.

The best way to make sure, is remove number spark plug. Have a friend turn the engine clockwise with a socket on the damper/crank bolt. You hold your finger over number spark plug hole until you a feel a strong burst of air. Continue to turn the engine clockwise a little more and line up the marks. Drop the distributor in and line the rotor under #1 terminal on the cap.

To answer your question... No, there's no specific cam gear you need to be on. As long as you can reach your desired timing, without the TFI hitting the AC or water neck.


The flywheel can only go on one way. The bolt holes are stagered to make sure you can't put it on wrong. Is that what you're asking?


On Edit: nevermind about the TDC thing, I missed the cam part >> If when you put the cam in, you lined up the notches on the crank and cam gears, then you're at TDC compression for #1..
Just curious how did you do the rocker arms without turning the engine? Some will argue, but will be wrong.... even pedestal mount rockers should be on the cam's base before torqueing.. Also, the preload should always be checked when installing a new cam, even with pedestal mount "non-adjustable" rocker, because tolerances can stack up against you.


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hnkstang50

not arguing, just saying that ive never rotated the motor to torque my pedistal mounted rockers. i just slowly torque them down and then re check the torque after they sat for like 5 mins to make shure the lifters were completly pumped down. never had a problem and ive had these heads off like 15 times now....

again not saying its the rite way... actualy i know your suposed to put it on base circle and the way i do it is wrong, just saying that ive done it this way with good luck

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87 mustang, stock intake to oil pan
a9l computer, pro tube meter, 42# injectors, 255 fuel pump, snow meth injection, bbk fpr, gtp 38 turbo, spearco intercooler, aod with trasgo shift kit

20 psi
11.34 @ 126.9

fastvert

Yeah, a lot of people say that. I've read in different places why it's better to do it on the cam's base circle. There were reasonS, but the only one I remember is the torque value differs, whether on the base or on a lobe.

He has to do base circle anyway, because he put a different cam in. The pedestals will need to be shimed for proper preload.



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89lxny

I just put the old cam back in. I did make sure the valves were closed when i torqued the rockers. (rotated it) I just remembered how many times I cranked it so that it would still be TDC on the compression stroke. At least I think I kept track of it I could have fvcked it up tho. Ill do what you guys said with the air thing though just to be safe. What would happen if i tried to fire it up and it was 180* off? no start or major damage??

BTW: What do you guys think of the look of the motor?(the red/aluminum) The heads are just stock painted with aluminum looking paint. I think It looks cool. I was thinking of all red or all black originally. Im glad I went with the red/silver tho.

hnkstang50

If you know that the cam and crank gear dots match up then you are all set to drop it in. 180 wont start and might back fire a little, make shure you drop it in rite, you want the first startup to go as smooth as possible

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87 mustang, stock intake to oil pan
a9l computer, pro tube meter, 42# injectors, 255 fuel pump, snow meth injection, bbk fpr, gtp 38 turbo, spearco intercooler, aod with trasgo shift kit

20 psi
11.34 @ 126.9

fastvert

Looks good.