Injector Rail - Mustang Forum

From6to8 · 08-11-2010, 03:31 PM

I'm sure the injector rail supposed to line up with the 4 bolt holes with ease and I'm wondering why in my case it seems as if I have to sort of force it some to get them to line up to put the bolts in them. Every time I have taken the injector rail loose, I have never taken the whole thing completely off the car as the distributor is preventing the front lip from slipping off unless you take off the dizzy.

I never take off the feul lines or anything, just remove the injectors from the intake after unbolting and hang up some out of the way. Is it possible the pressure from the fuel is doing this? I wouldnt think so but...................

I have always just tied a few strings to the rail and hung up via my carport and strings haning from the ceiling that connects to the strings on the rail. Its just up and out of the way enuff for in this case for me to drill out that broken bolt. I checked everything and the injectors are pushed in all the way and I do not see any other reason why the rail doesnt line up pretty much perfect with the holes and I have to line up then it seems as if its not perfectly centered. I am gona see what you guys say as to recommendations then start fresh tommorow.

On edit, after just playing around with it, seems like I have to bolt down the front first with the back injector out. At least get the bolt in the hole and snug some then put the back in and do the same. Darn maybe that's the way maybe its not lol but if it works then im all for it.

FRED-MATIC · 08-11-2010, 04:23 PM

91AOD · 08-12-2010, 04:04 AM

If you get the bolts started then push down on the rail as you tighten the bolt it should have the rail at the lowest point. If you want to get the rail completely out of the way without pulling the distributor jus remove the Dist Cap Adapter. The fuel rail can then come off the intake completely as long as it is unhooked from the fuel lines. As long as it is not leaking fuel then you should be good to go. I usually coat the orings with some engine oil before I put the injectors back in and it makes it a lot easier.

From6to8 · 08-12-2010, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91AOD

If you get the bolts started then push down on the rail as you tighten the bolt it should have the rail at the lowest point. If you want to get the rail completely out of the way without pulling the distributor jus remove the Dist Cap Adapter. The fuel rail can then come off the intake completely as long as it is unhooked from the fuel lines. As long as it is not leaking fuel then you should be good to go. I usually coat the orings with some engine oil before I put the injectors back in and it makes it a lot easier.

ok, sounds good

08-11-2010, 03:31 PM	#1
From6to8 95-6to8,converted Saleen Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: charleston, sc Posts: 1,069	Injector Rail I'm sure the injector rail supposed to line up with the 4 bolt holes with ease and I'm wondering why in my case it seems as if I have to sort of force it some to get them to line up to put the bolts in them. Every time I have taken the injector rail loose, I have never taken the whole thing completely off the car as the distributor is preventing the front lip from slipping off unless you take off the dizzy. I never take off the feul lines or anything, just remove the injectors from the intake after unbolting and hang up some out of the way. Is it possible the pressure from the fuel is doing this? I wouldnt think so but................... I have always just tied a few strings to the rail and hung up via my carport and strings haning from the ceiling that connects to the strings on the rail. Its just up and out of the way enuff for in this case for me to drill out that broken bolt. I checked everything and the injectors are pushed in all the way and I do not see any other reason why the rail doesnt line up pretty much perfect with the holes and I have to line up then it seems as if its not perfectly centered. I am gona see what you guys say as to recommendations then start fresh tommorow. On edit, after just playing around with it, seems like I have to bolt down the front first with the back injector out. At least get the bolt in the hole and snug some then put the back in and do the same. Darn maybe that's the way maybe its not lol but if it works then im all for it. __________________ 95 V6 converted GT/SALEEN. Trick Flow heads, E cam, FR 1.6 Roller Rockers , Edelbrock Performer RPM 2 intake, 24 lb injectors, Mac shortie headers, Basani X-pipe with 2 chamber flowmasters, 3.55 gears, MSD 6AL with coil, subframe connectors, Mac Rear UCA'S/LCA'S, Hotchkis Caster Cambers, 18x9 and 18x10 inch saleen wheels with 265 35's on front and 295's on rear. Last edited by From6to8; 08-11-2010 at 04:32 PM. Reason: just tried something else

08-11-2010, 04:23 PM	#2
FRED-MATIC Charles Bronson Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Palm Coast FL Posts: 6,777	__________________ Ship Your Car Now Senior VP of Enterprise Sales 561-705-0481

08-12-2010, 04:04 AM	#3
91AOD Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Tn Posts: 215	If you get the bolts started then push down on the rail as you tighten the bolt it should have the rail at the lowest point. If you want to get the rail completely out of the way without pulling the distributor jus remove the Dist Cap Adapter. The fuel rail can then come off the intake completely as long as it is unhooked from the fuel lines. As long as it is not leaking fuel then you should be good to go. I usually coat the orings with some engine oil before I put the injectors back in and it makes it a lot easier. __________________ www.thundervalleymustang.org 91 Coupe R.I.P. 2-15-10 91 Coupe "Phoenix" reborn 2-19-11