Cut the post from your stock Mass Air.
for 4.6L SOHC & DOHC.

Written by Mustangworld.

Lots of pics, I hope your on the net at 28.8 or faster.

There are two main pieces to the Mass Air Meter, the aluminum housing (measured in mm) and the electronic Mass Air unit itself (sitting on top). Many aftermarket housings do not come with a new electronic Mass Air sensor unit, they require you to remove the one you are currently using and drop it into the new housing, which is fine. In the future, if you upgrade to larger fuel injectors, you will need to purchase a new electronic Mass Air sensor unit or a complete aftermarket system because you will need an electronic sensor that is calibrated for your new injectors (Example: Upgrading from 19Lbs injectors to say 24Lbs in the GT, and from 24Lbs to whatever in the Cobra). The Mass Air sensor itself is the small black electronic unit that sits on top of the aluminum Mass Air housing see our univertisity section for how the MAF sensor (and wires) works in your stang.

In some aftermarket units, calibration is also done by changing the diameter of the sample tube in the housing, they will usually come with a few different size sample tubes to accommodate different calibration settings. Some Mass Air meters allow "tuning" by way of screws (like some Pro-M units), allowing you to set Idle and Wide Open Throttle settings. You can also change settings for MAF function with a chip.

NOTES: Don't remove the round metal screen mesh that is used in the Mass Air meter. It does not yield any "extra" HP. This screen will prevent any large particles (that got passed the air filter somehow) from damaging the hot and cold wires on the electronic sensor unit. Some folks also say it "smoothes out" the air flow, like an airator on your sink faucet, either way, it's best to leave the screen in place. You CAN remove it if you have an aftermarket intake system that requires you to remove it.

After this mod, you may not notice any increase in power right away, you must allow your computer a few miles of driving to re-learn new sensor ranges before you will begin to notice any HP changes (depending on your driving, like 10 miles or more). It's best to use different driving styles when in the "re-learn" period, some freeway, stop and go, and some 0-60 type driving. The Mass Air works with the MAP sensor for accurate air readings. This is why it is important to disconnect your battery when doing any mods that involve computer sensors (to clear out the RAM), especially with mods on the intake side of the engine.

Don't attempt this mod yourself unless you are good with a hack saw and a high speed roto grinding tool ! If you are good with tools, give yourself 1-2 hours for a clean job, if not give yourself 3-5 hours ! Remember, take your time, the race is on the street / track, not in the shop !

You can always purchase an aftermarket Mass Air meter housing if you can not do this mod yourself. They run around $250.

WAIT, STOP, READ ALL DIRECTIONS BELOW FIRST BEFORE STARTING ANYTHING ! YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, IF YOU MESS UP, IT'S YOUR FAULT BUDDY!

THIS MOD IS YET UNTESTED BY US ON 99 AND UP MUSTANGS, BUT A FEW HAVE DONE IT WITH NO PROBLEMS, SO YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK !

OK... HERE WE GO!

1. First we have to disconnect the positive battery terminal, remove the airbox and Mass Air meter unit. Unscrew the one screw holding the air box, disconnect the Mass Air wire plug, and loosen the hose clamp that is holding the Mass Air Meter to the intake hose.
2. Take the Mass Air unit into your shop and put it on your work table. It should look like this. Next we will remove the back piece of the air filter housing, but first, a tool you will need to get out.
3. You will need a special TORX bit, T20 size with a hole in the center of it, sometimes referred to as a key or tamper proof bit. You can buy one at a tool store for a few bucks. You can't continue without it !
4.Now we will remove the 4 bolts that hold on the back of the air box housing. The easiest way is to use a regular 4mm open end wrench to hold the torx screw and use another 10mm wrench to break the nuts loose, then you can finger spin the nuts right off. If you use a socket for this,you could strip the screw out of the plastic air box housing and damage it.
5. BEFORE you remove the housing, TAKE NOTE of the location of the plastic TAB on the air box back used to line up the air box ! Now remove the Mass Air housing. The screen may stick to the unit, carefully peel it free from the Mass Air and return it into it's screen groove located on the Black air box housing back. Do not run your stang with the screen removed.
6. With your special TORX bit, remove the2 screws holding the sensor itself onto the Mass Air housing, there is no gasket. Don't over tighten these bolts when re-installing.
7. CAREFUL NOW, LIFT STRAIGHT UP. This is very easy, just make sure you lift up. We wanted to show you the assembly at an angle in the photo, here you can see the hot and cold wire of the meter, for more info on how the Mass Air sensor works, visit our Mustangworld University section. Put it in a safe place for now.
8. Look at that extra metal ! Next we have to remove the baffle back plate. Use the same TORX T20 bit to remove this, you won't need this back plate anymore. It's there to accommodate the air restriction in the stock meter.
9. Look at that extra metal ! This is the post from the front view. We will be cutting / grinding the lower portion of the post away. Leave the round sample tube in tact. It is necessary for accurate air readings. We grinded off everything and left a uniform round tube in place at the top of the housing.
10. Loop a hack saw through the Mass Air housing and start your cuts. This type of hack saw is more precise to handle. If you have an open ended hack saw, you can use that also. Cut the post as close as you can to the sampler tube and the Mass Air housing bottom wall. Get close, without scratching the housing with the saw.

 

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