By Glenn Moller
yourself a set of ramps...
For slammed stangs and
If your stang is lowered more than 2 inches, or you just find it a PITA
to lift the front of your car then you might need to make yourself some
MW ramps :-)
(DIY means "Do it yourself" of course)
Our stock 2000 on the ramps.
One of the key things in
getting motivated to do your own oil changes or modding your stang is
being able to easily, quickly and safely lift your stang. If it's going
to take 15 minutes for you to jack up the front end of your stang one
side at a time with a jack and jack stands, chances are you won't be
too motivated to install that supercharger you had sitting in your garage
for the past 5 months :-)
The next problem is if your
stang is already slammed (lowered), then you have a real challenge lifting
the front end with probably only 1" - 2" of clearance.
We reviewed Rhino Ramps a few years back which is probably the best
store bought alternative (for the price), but the things we don't like
about them and other ramps were that on a lowered stang, you still scrape
the black lower portion, and most ramps are a single incline ramp, which
means any mishap and that stang is rolling down to the ground in one
shot. Also most store ramps are very light weight, which means they
can slide on a smooth floor when trying to drive up onto them.
We wanted ramps
that addressed all these problems that were the same price or less to
make than some store bought ramps.
MW Ramps sketch. Cost to make: Around $30 in wood
2" x 10" x 10 foot (two), 2" x 10" x 8 foot (two)
and a 2" x 3" x 10" piece.
isn't New Yankee Workshop, so just a quick overview.. :-)
Go to your local
lumber store and buy the pieces of wood mentioned above. You can get them
in different lengths. Try to find dry wood that's not warped. You might
buy 20 foot long pieces and cut them according to our sketch. We made
at least an 18" stretch between steps to accommodate the stang's
long nose and to avoid scraping ground effects on most slammed stangs.
Building is easy, simply nail the pieces together as shown, taking care
to pre-drill a slightly smaller hole for the nails, so you don't run the
risk of splitting the wood. Bend the nails over at the bottom of each
ramp if they stick out.. You may also glue the parts together to boot.
10" wide is good for wide tires.. Got wider ? You can get 2 x 11's
if need be.
This is with the stock springs, but you can see plenty
Drive on up
ON A FLAT LEVEL SURFACE, just drive up the ramps. The stopper piece will
prevent you from driving off and each step is easily rolled onto. Then
lay a wheel stop "behind" the front wheels and you are ready
to work. Each ramp weighs enough so they should not slide when driven
If you are on
an uneven surface, you might need to shim the ramps to get them level
and to ensure they lay flat. You can also place jackstands as a backup
if you wish.
What kind of
It raises the stang about 6" (a little higher than rhino ramps as
an example) and it's high enough to do most under chassis engine / h-pipe
work. Need higher ? You can add an extra step (before the rear tire hits
the ramps even).
Access is from
the front. You can swap an H-pipe and easily access the lower engine.
For more space or for oil changes you can lift the rear to level out the
stang. You can also now lift one side of the stang at a time up front
(a tiny amount) easily with a floor jack for changing the front tires
Is wood strong
Let just say laid flat the wood can lift your entire house (many tons)
with no worry. The only worry we have (way back in our minds) is wood
splitting, but if you pre-drilled your nails and / or glued your wood
together, you should have absolutely no problems.
nature of the ramps
The stepped nature of the ramps also means that if for some reason you
forgot to put a wheel stop behind your tires and you start jacking up
the rear, your stang may only roll down one step, NOT roll down the entire
ramp. Most other store ramps are single incline or 2 piece ramps, not
stepped like these home made units :-)
For most lowered
stangs (or other cars) lifting is no problem, because we only need 1.5"
in front of the tires. We have 18" of space before each step which
covers the lower edges on many body kits. If you need more room, you can
extend the step interval to 20+ inches. You can see there is plenty of
room left before the ramps hit our rear tires.
If you could not find yourself the "right" set of ramps in stores
or are tired of jacking up the front end one side at a time or bending
your center crossmember with your jack, or can't get a jack under your
front end... you can see making a set of home ramps is fairly easy and
you can make them to your very own specs.
The cost of the
wood can vary, so these are not really "poor mans" ramps in
some cases home made may cost a few dollars more, but since it's to your
own specs, we like that :-)
We gave our ramps
a coat of paint after these shots were taken.
These ramps will weigh 30 - 40 pounds each depending on how dry the wood
is, so they are mainly for home use (not really portable). We still have
all our other ramps (Rhino, metal, 2 stage, etc) and use them when we
can for different jobs.
time... se ya on the street !
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